Your commonly asked questions about soil health

Topsoil next to plant pots

Making the most of our soil is a top priority for any discerning gardener. Biologically, chemically and physically, soil is a more complex medium than many people think – and if you know how to work it to your advantage, and to your specific gardening needs, you can get excellent results. 

To help you in the quest for the most healthy, suitable soil, we’ll take you through some of the most commonly asked questions about soil health. Of course, answers will vary a little depending on the soil type in question, so bear this in mind. 

How do I know if my soil is healthy? 

Firstly, take a look at it. A healthy soil should ideally be a dark brown colour. You can also check your plants to see if they are healthy. Browning or yellowing leaves could be a sign of nutrient deficiencies in the soil, and if weeds are taking over, that could be another clear indicator as weeds are far more tolerant of poor soil conditions than other plants. 

Another way of assessing soil health is to grab a handful of it and roll it between your fingers. Healthy soil should ideally break apart into differently-sized crumbs which should hopefully hold their integrity under a little pressure. Too hard, and it may take a lot of pressure to break it up. Soil that is tough to work and breaks up into big clumps can also be a sign of hard soil. To test soil compaction a little better, take a wire and push it into the soil – if the wire bends near the surface, then your soil could be too compacted, and its health may suffer as a result.

One other sign of healthy soil is the presence of earthworms and other organisms. Simply by digging down around 6 inches, you can observe how much your soil is thriving by noting the organisms you can see. A healthy soil should be rich in varied organisms. 

How to improve soil health 

If you’ve noticed that your soil is not as healthy as you would like, identifying the issue is the first step to improving it. 

Adding mulch or compost can revive a struggling soil by introducing more nutrients and organic matter. You may also want to add nutrients through fertilisers if you identify that one or more is lacking. 

If you’re growing crops, make sure you rotate the planting location between different patches over time. Repeatedly growing crops in the same spot year-on-year can deplete the nutrients. 

To avoid soil compaction, you may want to create designated walkways or paths throughout your garden space to prevent people from walking over the growing areas, and thus compacting the soil, 

Which soil is most permeable? 

Generally speaking, sandy soils are the most permeable while soils that have a higher proportion of clay particles tend to reduce drainage and permeability. It’s important to check what levels of permeability you will require for your specific needs, as this may vary. Though, you should also be aware that soils which drain too quickly, such as very sandy soils, may also be detrimental as water and therefore nutrients will not be held in the soil long enough for plants to benefit. 

soil

What are some signs of poor soil drainage? 

One way of testing if your soil drainage is poor is by digging up a plant and examining the roots. If the roots are dark, limp or mushy, then this could be a sign of poor drainage or aeration. Stunted growth can also shine a light on poor drainage. Growth of moss is another sign of poor drainage so make sure to remove the moss and then rectify the problem. 

Another tip is to pour a glass of water onto your soil, and if the water is absorbed into the soil within around 5 seconds or so, this is an indicator of good drainage. Water that sits on top of the soil for a little too long could indicate compaction or a lack of aeration. 

How to improve soil drainage 

Compost is a well-aerated medium with plenty of valuable air pockets to enhance drainage, so mixing in some compost with your soil can boost overall water movement in the soil. 

Moving earthworms into areas of your garden which experience poor drainage is another trick for boosting aeration, as earthworms can assist in reducing soil compaction by digging holes. The excretions, or ‘casts’, from the earthworms can also help the soil retain nutrients better, as well as increasing water retention. 

You can also gently aerate the soil using a small fork to break up compaction and aid drainage, or even install a drainage system into your garden with pipes. 

Searching for soil that will enrich your garden? Here at Chargrace Soils, we supply a wide range of soil types and mixes to suit any needs, ranging from sandy loam and topsoil all the way to low-fertility options for wildflower areas. Whatever you need, we can deliver to customers across the UK, including Kent, Bromley and Sevenoaks. 

A Guide to Growing Your Own Fruit And Vegetables

veg growing

Most gardeners dream of nurturing, harvesting, and enjoying their own fresh produce. Not only is it economical, sustainable, and healthy, tending a fruit and veg patch is scientifically proven to benefit our mental health and emotional wellbeing too! Here is a handy, practical guide to cultivating abundant, delicious, and diverse fruits and vegetables in your own back garden!

Preparation 

Mindful planning and planting is the best way to ensure abundant, healthy, and even year-round harvests. In spring, decide which fruits and vegetables you want to grow, what their requirements are, and where you want to grow them. It seems obvious, but the very best crops to grow are those which you and your family enjoy eating!

Space and Place 

When planning out your crops, consider the space and light conditions in your garden. If your space is small, select crops that grow, or can be trained to grow, vertically, such as runner beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, strawberries, raspberries, and even melons. You may need to cane and restrain some crops to prevent them from spreading.

Although most fruits and vegetables need a fair amount of sunlight to flourish, don’t despair if your garden is shady. Shade-tolerant crops such as gooseberries, raspberries, rhubarb, beetroot, kale, or lettuce will do well so long as they receive a little midday sun. Most salad crops are heat averse so flourish in cool, shady conditions. 

Soil 

Matching your crops to your soil type will improve your harvest! Brassicas such as cabbage, sprouts, and broccoli all enjoy clay soil, whereas root vegetables like carrot, parsnip, and beetroot will prefer sandy soil. You can modify or enrich your soil in early spring to make sure your crops receive adequate nutrients throughout the growing season. Adding plenty of organic manner such as compost, bark, and manure will improve the quality of any soil type, and spreading a layer of organic mulch will help the soil to retain moisture. Remove any large stones or other debris from the border and loosen the soil with a fork to improve aeration before sowing. Try to keep your beds narrow, so that you can easily reach across them to perform any maintenance without stepping on and compacting the soil. 

Fertiliser

Even with the best soil quality and light conditions, your crops need fertiliser to really maximise their yield. Nutrient-rich soil produces nutritious, delicious crops. It’s best to add fertiliser in spring and work it into the soil before the bed has been planted. Very hungry crops such as tomatoes will need extra food during the growing season. There is an extensive array of crop-specific food available, which deliver specialised nutrients to complement each crop. Be careful not to over-fertilise though, as this can cause considerable damage to the plant. 

Maximising productivity 

Succession Planting 

Fast-growing veg such as spinach, leeks, and onions can be sown and picked in quick succession. Designate an area for these fast-growing crops, As soon as one crop is harvested, use that space to plant another fast-growing variety. Spring onions and most salad leaves can be sown repeatedly throughout the summer. Succession planting maximises the productivity and versatility of your space. 

Extending the growing season

Growing your own produce is not limited to the summer! There are plenty of ways to extend your growing season for year-round harvests. Resist the temptation to sow early, as most crops will be damaged by a late frost. Wait until the soil is warming up. You can speed up the warming process by covering beds with blankets or plastic in mid to late spring. This also prevents weeds from getting a head start. Get ahead by sowing fragile crops like chilis in seed trays indoors, and plant them out as soon as the last frost passes. Brassicas are fairly frost-hardy and can be grown year-round, carrots can be sown in mid-to-late summer for an autumn harvest, and leafy crops like rocket can survive frost if covered with a cloche. Winter veg should be sown in early summer so they have plenty of time to mature. 

Harvesting

Certain vegetables, such as potatoes, can remain in the ground for some time once matured, whilst others such as soft fruits and berries are best picked and eaten fresh as soon as they are ripe. With some crops, like beans, the more often you pick them, the more they produce. Cut-and-come-again veg like kale and spinach will continue to grow back again and again through the summer, so long as you don’t remove all the leaves at once.

Troubleshooting and Maintenance 

Pests, Weeds, and Disease

Frustratingly, fruit and veg gardens are a haven for all manner of garden nuisances, but there are some clever tricks to keep them at bay without the need for harmful chemicals or labour intensive procedures. Peppermint oil is an excellent natural aphid repellant. Debris and decaying matter are notorious for harbouring pests and disease, so keep borders clear. High-density planting keeps weeds at bay since there isn’t room for them to flourish. Growing in pots or raised beds will offer some protection from ground pests like slugs.

Crop Rotation 

Planting the same annual crop in the same place year on year can deplete the nutrients in that spot. Crop rotation not only helps to maintain soil fertility since different crops will take up different nutrients, but also disrupts the cycle of crop-specific pests and diseases, which may linger dormant in the soil and attack the next year’s crops.

Companion planting

Companion planting, where complimentary or symbiotic plants are grown together, is an excellent way to both maximise productivity and protect against pests by letting the garden do the work for you! For example, planting onions near to carrots will protect them from the carrot root fly, and French marigolds will repel aphids from susceptible crops like tomatoes and beans. Plants from the pea family will release nitrogen back into the soil from their roots, so are a great addition near soft fruits that love nitrogen-rich soil. Avoid placing drought-tolerant herbs near to thirsty plants like beans or tomatoes as they may become oversaturated. Interspersing vegetables with pungent plants like garlic or strong herbs will also help to repel pests. Nectar-rich flowers like sweet pea and nasturtium will attract pollinators who improve the yield of crops like strawberries and courgettes, whilst also brightening up the veg garden with vivid splashes of colour. 

Creating a Green Roof on Shed or Garage

green roof

What is a Green Roof?

Green roofs are increasingly popular features atop houses, sheds, and garages across Britain. As well as providing unconventional and unexpected slivers of beauty amongst mundane architecture, they help to improve biodiversity in urban areas, attract local wildlife, offset carbon emissions, and even provide insulation and flood protection for nearby structures. 

There are two types of green roofs. Intensive roof gardens tend to be created on a large, complex, and commercial scale (think rooftop gardens perched above city skyscrapers). Extensive green roofs, however, are much better suited to your garden shed or garage. They are low maintenance, uncomplicated, and lightweight by design.  

How to fit a Green Roof?

Structural Integrity and Specifications

You will need to check out the structural integrity of your shed or garage first, to ensure it can support the extra weight of the garden. Of course, flat roofs are preferable, but any slope of fewer than 30 degrees is suitable for a green roof. If your chosen roof is slightly sloped, you may need to build a supporting frame to prevent the garden from slipping down the roof, particularly after heavy rainfall. 

Your roof will need to receive both adequate sunlight and rainfall for plants to thrive, and you will need to access your garden once or twice a year for essential maintenance, so ensure you have a safe way of getting up on top of your shed or garage. 

Layers 

Extensive green roofs need to be constructed in layers. Firstly, they require a waterproof layer or membrane to protect the structure beneath. This could be an existing layer of bitumen or similar, or you may need to install something more hardwearing.

Next, you will need a root barrier to protect the structure from root damage. A polyurethane sheet or weed-proof fabric should do the trick. It is crucial to install a drainage layer to prevent your roof from becoming waterlogged. Drainage mats are readily available to purchase in a variety of size specifications and usually feature capillaries or perforations which allow water to flow freely.

Next, you will need a layer of lightweight, nutrient-rich, free-draining substrate as the growing medium for your plants. This should be between 50 and 100 mm deep. Finally, you can install your vegetation or sow seeds over the substrate layer. 

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Suitable Plants

The idea is to create a garden that only needs tending once or twice a year, to weed, feed, replenish any dead areas, and check on the drainage system. Occasionally, during droughts, plants may require extra watering. Low maintenance and shallow-rooted plants are the keys to success here. Try to mix your species, as this improves biodiversity, adds interest, and prevents disease or nutrient deficiency.

Sedum blankets are by far the most commonly used vegetation in roof gardens. These hardy succulents provide excellent coverage with minimal food, water, and sunlight requirements, whilst providing pretty blooms. Native wildflowers are another great choice for roof gardens, as they require almost no maintenance, will attract plenty of local wildlife and will provide a stunning, colourful display in the summer months. If your shed or garage roof is not very easily accessible, you could even consider creating a kitchen garden by growing shallow-rooted, hardy herbs such as Rosemary, Chive, or Thyme.